by Sharon Mascall
courtesy of BBC News World Edition |
You have to watch your step in Coober
Pedy
|
Minnie
Berrington was among the first.
In 1926, the typist from London made the long journey to Coober
Pedy, a remote, South Australian opal mining town halfway between
Adelaide and Alice Springs.
"I wish I were a man," she wrote in her memoir Stones of Fire.
"I'd love to dig for opals."
Coober Pedy comes from the Aboriginal term kupa piti, meaning
"white man in a hole".
"They say diamonds are a girl's best
friend, but opal is far more beautiful"
|
Within a
few weeks, however, Minnie Berrington was digging alongside the men,
pick and shovel in hand, proving that women could go down holes too.
Since the 1920s, hundreds of other women have arrived, hoping to
make a living from the precious gem.
Around 95% of the world's opal comes from Australia - and from
Coober Pedy in particular. About $1m's worth is pulled out of the
ground every year.
Over the centuries, the gem has become part of folklore.
It was worn by Cleopatra, called the "Queen of gems" by
Shakespeare, and has been credited with curing eye disease and
acting as a good luck charm against poison.
'Painted Lady'
Hundreds of new faces arrive in Coober Pedy every year, many of
them women.
Nikki Penissi has spent much of her life
underground
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They hope to find a "Painted Lady" - a rock covered with opal -
or a "Virgin Rainbow", the name given to the town's most valuable
stone, now locked up in an Adelaide bank vault.
"As soon as you see the colour, you hope to make millions
tomorrow," said Nikki Penissi, one of Coober Pedy's female opal
miners, who migrated to the town from Greece 35 years ago.
"After you lick a few stones you get the fever, opal fever. Make
sure you don't lick the stones, because otherwise you're going to be
here for 35 years."
Nikki has spent much of her life in Australia underground, either
digging for opal or living in a dugout - a cave tunnelled into the
side of a hill.
More than 50% of the town's population - currently 3,500 people -
live in dugouts. The air inside is cool and still, away from the
dust, flies and desert heat.
When European miners first discovered Coober Pedy's opal fields
90 years ago, some considered it bad luck for women to go down the
mines.
But Anne Vanajek, a mother of three who has mined underground for
32 years, says hard work means she has always been treated with
respect.
"It wasn't easy in
the early days - we'd go out to the field at night with two young
children," she said.
"When they went to sleep I'd be sorting out explosives, starting
the machinery and trying to sort out the washing and the ironing and
all the other things that needed to be done."
"It is hard work physically, not recommended for someone who's
frail. I'm lucky that I'm quite a robust person. I've always enjoyed
the camaraderie I've had with other miners, they talk to me as an
equal."
Today, some of the women of Coober Pedy are turning to other
careers - in nursing, teaching or tourism - preferring a reliable
income to gambling on opal.
But the women who are still miners say it is a stone they just
cannot leave unturned.
"When I first came, I didn't understand what all the fuss was
about," said Tania Burke, a German who met her husband in Coober
Pedy when she visited as a tourist, and now mines with him everyday.
"They say diamonds are a girl's best friend, but opal is far more
beautiful. I just adore it. It's a magnificent stone."